You didn't really think I'd let March slip away without a bock post, did you? Because there's no way I'd do that.

Sure, the bock drought I noted in previous years is still going on (for some reason), but that's not enough to dissuade me from trying at least one new-to-me variant of this spring varietal! After some serious search, I found a single can of Northern Row's Cooper Heller Bock. See that goat-disguised barrel on the label art? Yeah, I think this one'll fit this month's bill just fine.

Northern Row Brewery & Distillery lives in a pre-Prohibition stock house within Cincinnati's Over-the-Rhine neighborhood. They specialize in traditional-style beers that pay homage to Cincinnati's heritage (meaning they do up a mean German-inspired ale or lager). Head over to their website to find out more about them and their whole distilling deal.

Cooper has a spot at the bottom of the brewery's "Seasonals" page. Here, showcased with what I assume is the bock's old label art, it's listed as a 7% ABV "...golden-hued Hellerbock brimming with rich malt character and subtle hop bitterness." That sounds like exactly what I want to drink in March!

Cracking into the lager, I'm met with a malt-forward nose brimming with notes of biscuits, honey, and good, hearty grapes. This is coupled with a mild yeastiness, which makes for a stellar bouquet. Melba gave my can six whiffs. I'm starting to see six as her baseline whiff number.

The flavor profile is equally stellar. My first swig begins with notes of plum and grape, which gives way to honey and freshly-baked rye bread. Further pulls bring some straw from the yeast, although that dissipates before the lingering finish of dark fruits and a mild-yet-gravelly hop bitterness.

Turning to the mouthfeel, it's sharp and full. Cooper is a crisp, robust, and, ultimately, quaffable bock.

Cooper is an excellent porch beer. You know when you get home after a long day of work and grab a cold one from the fridge before settling into a porch chair to enjoy it? That's this. Only, it's bolstered by the gorgeously warm and windy weather of this evening.

Northern Row's Cooper is a solid 9.5/10. Bock is a style of lager that I've really come to love in the last handful of years; the Cincinnati brewery's take on it here is a killer addition to the style's canon. Seriously, if you're lucky enough to find a pack of this on the shelves at your local beer-supplying store, pick it up.